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Barbarian Days is William Finnegans memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our nosesoff the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.

Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful follyhe drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Mauiis served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the worlds greatest waves. As Finnegans travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. Today, Finnegans surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life, by William Finnegan - SFGate Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life, by William Finnegan. By Antoine Wilson. Published 11:42 am, Thursday, July 23, 2015 Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life Poets and Writers Barbarian Days is William Finnegans memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful ... Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life Paperback - amazon.com Buy Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life on Amazon.com FREE SHIPPING on qualified orders Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life: William Finnegan ... Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life and over one million other books are available for Amazon Kindle. Learn more surfersvillage.com - Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life" wins ... 20 April, 2016 - The 2016 Pulitzer Prize has gone to surf author William Finnegan for his memoir Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. The book chronicles the ... Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan ... Overview Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on ... Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan ... Barbarian Days review This is a memoir built around surfing. Despite knowing nothing about surfing I enjoyed most if it. That's an accomplishment. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life Penguin Press A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer. Barbarian Days is William Finnegans memoir of an obsession, a complex ...